"Set the scene: What's this place like?Unassuming. Next to a tram stop where candy-apple-red trams trundle to and from. Just the right touch of Western nods without the kitschy antler decor and taxidermy. Modern furnishings from designers such as John Pawson and Patricia Urquiola. What’s the story behind it?This is an independent hotel, mostly the vision of Wes Edens, co-owner of the Milwaukee Bucks basketball team, a former ski racer and longtime visitor to Jackson Hole. He and three partners—all ski addicts—spent six years and more than $100 million creating this passion project. Having Commune (Ace Hotel Chicago and L.A.) involved in the design is definitely of note—the L.A.-based studio added a distinct residential feel you don’t normally get in most mountain chalets. Edens’ one directive was no As (A-hole guests or antlers). What can we expect from our room?NYC penthouse swank meets rustic, cosy mountain chalet. We were in the four-bedroom suite, Taupo (there are just eight rooms in total), with a heated terrace, firepit and a soaking tub in the bathroom, set up with candles and bath salts. The bed is like one big pillow; there’s colored tiling in the bathroom and a boot room full of outdoor essentials (sunscreen, hand warmers). Loved the loaded playlists on the iPad that played throughout the room. The wood-burning fireplace is a nice touch and the kitchen is stocked with anything you could ever want. How about the food and drink?The grab-and-go, tramside Cable Cafe has $3 beers, pizza by the slice and sloshies—alcoholic slushees that are a Jackson speciality. Old Yellowstone Garage is an outpost of a locally loved joint a few miles away, run by the same chef, Paulie O'Connor, recognizable from his tattoos and piercings. His New York-style Italian food is exactly what you want after a long day hiking or skiing, and it's fairly priced. The OYG lasagne is a must, and there’s an all-you-can eat pizza night on Mondays. Try the Old Faithful (San Marzano tomatoes, basil, mozzarella) or the Father Guido Sarducci (provolone sausage, mushrooms, caramelized onions, kale, arugula, mascarpone, and mozzarella). The Italian-focused wine list runs deep. The hidden candy closet in the locker room is a favorite feature, stocked with old-school sweets such as swirled rainbow lollipops and candy necklaces. Anything to say about the service?You don't see staff walking around, though there is always someone at the front desk. Where Caldera House shines is its experiences—it has partnered with locals to curate amazing off-property activities: Exum Mountain Guides for hiking and even a summit of Grand Teton if you're fit enough. Or an award-winning photographer for a photo tour of Yellowstone, or private SUP yoga lessons in the park (magical). They also offer heli-skiing and heli-hiking. GM Pamela Neci was head-hunted from Bela Coola Heli Ski and she is an absolute pro. Who else stays here?Badass pro skiers (Jimmy Chin, Bode Miller, and Tommy Moe are all regulars) along with some of Wall Street and Silicon Valley's biggest disruptors, bragging about skiing Corbet's Couloir. Wearing serious, technical clothing (North Face, Salomon) and talking about everything from the latest Warren Miller film to the newest SF start-up. How does it fit into the neighborhood?This is steps from the Jackson Hole Mountain Tram in the heart of Teton Village. The Mudroom, Caldera's on-site gear shop, is run by a local ski-tuning guru and can outfit guests with everything from splitboards and SUPs to fat bikes and road bikes. You could argue the Four Seasons is just up the hill and has a lively après scene but it attracts a very Four Seasons crowd. At the South Cable Café and Old Yellowstone Garage you get a true mix of locals and visitors. Anything you'd change?There are plans for a spa, which is missing. And would add some studios or one-bedroom options. Anything we missed?Overheard: Four Seasons guests commenting on how Caldera House has Peloton bikes in the gym and strategizing how they could get access. Is it worth it—and why?It's a splurge, but it's worth it for the valet parking alone (Jackson Hole resort has zero parking) and the ski concierge. The Caldera House really makes you feel like a local rather than an outsider by connecting guests with local guides and adding touches like a costume closet so you can dress up for local holidays." - Jen Murphy
