"Melburnians have been visiting this handsome Chinatown venue for Italian food since the 1920s, but it wasn't until 1999, when the Grossi family took over, that it became a fine-dining heavy hitter. Expect classic dishes made with opulent ingredients and dashes of modern flair. The menu changes seasonally but seafood remains a dominant feature; a recent dish of seaweed taglierini with prawn and bottarga brought to mind crashing through late-summer waves. The six-course "Gran Tour" never disappoints, but picky eaters may prefer to choose the three-course prix-fixe instead." - Dan F. Stapleton