L’Abattoir — Restaurant Review | Condé Nast Traveler

"What were your first impressions when you arrived? After opening Jean-Georges Vongerichten's Restaurant in the Shangri-La Hotel (and before that, working at the well-accoladed Fat Duck in the UK), chef Lee Cooper was ready for a Vancouver place of his own. Enter L’Abattoir, a Gastown restaurant specializing in French-inspired West Coast cuisine that, more than 13 years later, continues to receive recognition as one of the country’s best. A striking atrium, warm wood tones, and industrial touches all greet guests as they enter and settle in (as does a fun playlist shuffling rap and hip-hop). Keep an eye on the calendar for information on No.1 Gaoler’s Mews, the team’s pop-up concept that brings in guest chefs for three dinners per year—each of which raises funds for the restaurant’s chosen charity (right now, Downtown Eastside Neighborhood House). What’s the crowd like? Local regulars, friend groups celebrating, and out-of-towners who have heard of chef Cooper’s cred can all be spotted here on the nightly. What should we be drinking? The cocktail program focuses on local and seasonal ingredients and spirits (with an emphasis on in-house infusions and syrups, which make their way into the Low and No list, too—a menu of low- and non-alcoholic concoctions). Lead Sommelier Andrew Forsyth’s wine list is equally exciting (and has been recognized at the platinum level since 2018 at the Vancouver International Wine Festival). The collection comprises Old World styles celebrating obscure varietals and lesser-known regions (with a lot of love for British Columbia and small production wineries). Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Choose from the a la carte or nine-course tasting menu. Either way, you’re in for seasonal surprises and frequent changes, reaping the benefits of the relationships Cooper and team have formed with local farmers, fisheries and producers. Even still, there are some favorites that tend to stay put—namely the Steak Diane and the baked Pacific oysters (with black truffle and garlic butter). Don’t miss dessert from Pastry Chef Oliver Bernardino, whose seasonal, intricate creations give wow factor to the finale (we see you, salted honey and bourbon mille-feuille). And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? Kind, thoughtful, and knowledgeable. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? A definite date night option, or a fancy and memorable evening out with friends." - Nicole Schnitzler