Snow Crab Mandoo at Odre The biggest surprise when you bite into a snow crab mandoo at Odre is the wrapper. Instead of meeting the bounce of dumpling skin, your teeth hit the delicate crunch of thinly sliced radish that’s wrapped like a silky sheath around generous morsels of dense, soft crab. It’s part of Odre’s $42 tasting menu — a true bargain, especially given the quality of the crab, and the finesse when using it. MELISSA CLARK