
3

"A California-inspired Bayswater restaurant whose borderline frenetic service makes relaxing difficult, even though the cooking often impresses. High points include a posh tian of crab with watermelon and confit egg yolk that balances sweetness, freshness and richness; perfectly judged halibut with Jerusalem artichokes lifted by a fennel broth and chervil oil; and a strong monkfish with corn and oxtail. Other plates are less successful — a miserly tomatoes/watermelon/feta assembly, bruised mashed avocado and an eel dish that struggles to cohere — leaving the meal a curate’s egg that could benefit from calmer front-of-house execution." - George Reynolds