
23

"A rare congruence of locals of all ages elbow-to-elbow over fantastic, chewy-crusted pies, this staple keeps things effortless: preorder quickly—there’s no patience for indecisiveness—grab a ticket, and head to the cafeteria-style dining room where the pizza is brought to you. Choose between red and white sauce pizzas; the San Gennaro ($24) with sausage, sweet red peppers, buffalo mozzarella, and caramelized cipollini onions is arguably the best. It’s BYO, and the communal tables invite conversation—strangers share pours of whatever they’ve brought; I traded sips of a Franciacorta rosé I’d marked “Pizza Wine” while a couple beside us clinked plastic cups over their mushroom pie. Football (the European kind) plays on a TV, heat rolls off the open kitchen, and cheesy “That’s Amore” blares, completing the scene." - Henna Bakshi