"The first Murger Han up in Euston predates the introduction of Xi’an Impression into London’s regional Chinese pantheon, but didn’t make much of an impact at the time in a city only just adjusting to the idea of Sichuanese cuisine. The second, incongruously in Mayfair, has noticeably upped its game in wake of the new restaurant landscape and now goes toe to toe on Shaanxi classics. Ignore the “murgers” — overly dry rou jia mo — here it’s all about the noodles. Parchments of biang biang and tensile hand-pulled la tiao zi come with toppings of tomato, egg sauce and various meats and chilli oils that add compelling textures and flavours in each pull. The rice noodles are also not to be missed, cold and elastic, steamed and served with vegetables and the balm of sesame sauce." - Jonathan Nunn
