The Licking

A Critic Finds ‘Assertive Flavors’ at Globe-Trotting River North Spot | Eater Chicago

"Despite “hit-or-miss execution,” I still see this DJ Khaled–linked soul food spot as a welcome West Side draw: the signature deep-fried lobster is thankfully not overcooked, though the fryer erases any recognizable lobsterlike characteristics; an “alluring” fried chicken combo pairs “crunchy, juicy” wings with powdered sugar–dusted red velvet waffles that make for a “nice photo.” Grilled shrimp are “decently snappy” if outsized by their $15.99 price tag, while slices of steak and onions across “gummy, saucy” linguine Alfredo are “gnarly and tough beyond edibility.” Nothing stands out more than the “Famous Mystery Drink,” a virgin fruit juice and lemonade cocktail that tastes like a swallow of assorted Jolly Ranchers." - Jeffy Mai