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"Scrawled on a chalkboard, the rustic-yet-refined Mid‑Atlantic menu conjures images of open dining rooms and chef’s counters, but there’s no formal restaurant space — just a converted kitchen trailer on cinder blocks in a green field east of Shenandoah National Park. Over the past year Abbey and Dan Gleason have grown Sumac (3863 Sperryville Pike) from a pop‑up at Pen Druid into a hyper‑seasonal mobile operation with two custom wood‑burning hearths in an open‑walled extension; because the land is zoned agricultural they must keep a mobile rig. From the trailer window they serve a weekly changing, foraged-and-local menu — recent dishes included a rabbit stir fry over oats with a black walnut sauce that achieves a shoyu‑like umami, a deep purple bison tartare topped with cured egg yolk, pickled mushrooms and white flowers, and chevre gnocchi brightened by fire‑roasted tomatoes — and Dan even deglazes pans with Pen Druid’s “super bright” Arkansas Black cider. The couple prides itself on sourcing every ingredient within a 150‑mile radius (apples and Magness pears from Jenkins Orchard; heritage‑breed Berkshire and Ossabaw pork from Autumn Olive Farm; poultry from Whiffletree Farm) while also practicing homesteading crafts like making soft cheeses and vinegars." - Brian Oh
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