Gabriel Rucker’s Canard Hits Eater National’s Best New Restaurants | Eater Portland

"Opened in April by star chef Gabriel Rucker after an eight-year gap since his last opening, the restaurant quickly became an all-day hangout and was named by Eater National one of the 18 Best New Restaurants in America. I found it to be a high-end diner disguised as a neo-bistro—the marble bar and high tables recall a Belle Époque café—where playful, exuberant, zigzagging American cooking mixes with French touches. Signature items called out by critics include steam burgers "revved with French onion soup," the already-infamous duck stack (pancakes dripping with gravy and duck egg yolk), fried chicken wings, and foie gras dumplings, while simpler French dishes like oeufs en mayonnaise, pork rillettes, and steak frites with béarnaise are essential orders. It serves breakfast, late-night cocktails, and swirly cones of soft-serve, opens early (8 or 9 a.m.), and has garnered rave local and national attention; Eater's Bill Addison described the food as exuberant and said he left humming, "That was fun." - Brooke Jackson-Glidden