"Not far from Clapham Junction, Kaosarn is a classic Thai BYOB, and the supermarket across the road makes things easy for the disorganised. The deep-fried soft shell crab is everything one wants to accompany a Chang beer: salty and crisp, batter so light it barely hides the seaside tenderness within. Noodles are mountainous and usually loaded with garlic, the Moo Ping (pork skewers), fragrant and sweet with palm sugar. Satay sauce will be everywhere — and there’ll be a need for a second pot." - Josh Barrie