"The smoked short rib—prepared with a 48-hour smoke and finished with black shichimi pepper—is presented on the bone with accoutrements meant for building bites on lettuce leaves with pickled onion and sauces; each mouthful delivers a balance of smoky and tangy flavors. Complementary highlights include a hamachi crudo studded with jalapeño and a Japanese sweet potato side glazed in buttered sugar and sprinkled with salty Parmesan, all served in a breezy, greenery-filled dining room." - Janna Karel