Best Dishes the Eater Portland Team Ate This Week - Eater Portland
"If you’re wondering what a rhinestone cowboy looks like, look no further than Hawkeye & Huckleberry Lounge in Bend. Those who are familiar with celebrity chef Brian Malarkey will recognize him from food TV where he’s known primarily for his San Diego restaurants; Huckleberry represents a sort of homecoming as he returns to celebrate his family ranching roots in Oregon’s high desert. The space is a reflection of Malarkey’s flamboyant personal style: During my visit, I witnessed sharply dressed bartenders in cowboy hats alongside bejeweled cattle skulls and a cocktail dressed up with a disco ball wearing a pink cowboy hat. It’s a lot to take in. While the vibe was fun and a little playful, the food stood out. During my meal, my dining partners and I got to sample a full range of the menu from perfectly smooth and fluffy butter potatoes to a bubbly margherita pizza that’s heavy on the oregano to a crispy pork belly with grilled peaches and punchy sliced and pickled Fresno chiles. The most eye-catching moment of the meal was a malt liquor-battered mushroom which came out crispy and flared like a piece of coral. Of course, one really cannot leave the restaurant without some beef. Sourced locally, ours came out tender and perfectly cooked to medium with an intriguing addition of anise flavor to the spice mix." - Eater Staff
