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"Every day, two brothers alternate as cook and floor manager at this institution of traditional northern Peruvian cuisine. The restaurant has been in operation for 27 years, but the humble dining room still gets packed at lunch from Tuesday to Sunday, with diners seated around a fig tree in the middle of the room. Garlic, onion, chile, tomato, and lemon star in the brothers’ energetic seasoning, and Don Fernando is especially known for hearty stews, as well as seafood and fish dishes like ceviches. If you order the fresh clams (only served on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays), the server will likely advise you, “If they don’t move, return them.” [$$$]" - Liliana López Sorzano
