"Kinder days saw celebs trekking all the way to Vrisaki in Bowes Park to be seen eating their endless meze, but the Oakwood outpost called Andy’s couldn’t be more utilitarian. They’ve left out the meze and the atmosphere and cut straight to the grilled meat: three kinds of souvlaki, soft pillows of minced lamb and offal sheftalia wrapped in caul fat, or Flintstone sized chunks of lamb souvla, slow-cooked over charcoal until it slips from the bone at the merest prompt." - Jonathan Nunn