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"In Garden Grove, Winnie Yee turns out distinct Asian-style barbecue from three massive 1,000-gallon smokers and a welcoming cottage, drawing lines for smoked char siu, crispy siu yuk pork belly, and beef brisket. Her approach aims for balance, with sweetness and smoke interplaying with spice and texture; the mapo chili brings flavors rarely seen in Texas, while spicy cucumber pickles wouldn’t look out of place at a Sichuan restaurant." - Matthew Kang