"A narrow, atmospheric spot with darkened, condensation-lined windows and high-backed booths that centers on a fiercely bubbling, unseasoned sullungtang; bowls arrive nearly instantly along with cabbage and daikon kimchi, a fiery chile-powder sauce, a huge bowl of sliced green onions and rice, and the broth itself is rich and tonkotsu-like—so savory some diners drink straight from the bowl." - Samantha Bakall