"In a 1969 review, the critic praised the le caneton smitane as tender, juicy and superbly flavored with a lovely sour cream sauce, while noting that the le ris de veau au champagne (sweetbreads) was found by a companion to be gross and unappetizing; the review opened with a four-paragraph treatise on New Yorkers’ warped psyche, reflecting a tendency to mix vivid culinary appraisal with broader, literary observation." - Bettina Makalintal