

7

"In the 2000s Koi in West Hollywood became a paparazzi magnet—photographers snapped hard-flashed photos of Miley Cyrus, Paris Hilton, and David Hasselhoff—and its chefs have put their own stamp on Nobu-style staples: Rob Lucas (who trained with Katsuya’s founder) offers a yellowtail jalapeño dressed in a wasabi-soy citrus, and Koi’s version famously amps the dish with truffle oil for an early-aughts edge." - Matthew Kang