Victor's Cafe Cuban Restaurant

Victor’s Cafe in Midtown Nails Ropa Vieja, Cuba’s National Dish | Eater NY

"On Eater’s list of 38 essential New York restaurants, this Cuban stalwart—called the city’s “most luxurious and venerable Cuban restaurant” by Robert Sietsema—was opened in 1963 by Victor del Corral on the Upper West Side and relocated to its current home on 52nd Street in 1980; it’s now run by his daughter Sonia and granddaughter Monica Zaldivar. My experience focuses on the ropa vieja, which Sietsema calls “the most elegant” in New York and which can be ordered in a crock ($29) or in a nest of plantains alongside vaca frita ($32). The ropa vieja is a BUY: twirl-able and aptly nicknamed “old clothes,” with skirt steak that soaks up braised tomatoes, garlic, onions, and peppers to deliver a profound sweetness and savory mouthfeel best eaten with rice and beans (I sometimes add Tabasco or mojo de ajo for acidity). By contrast the vaca frita—skirt steak marinated in orange mojo, shredded and pan-fried—lacks the crisp browned edges it needs and is textureless and somewhat grey. While I still prefer the music, crowds, and cocktails of Guantanamera, I’ll be back to Victor’s for its Eater 38–worthy ropa vieja soon." - Ryan Sutton