"Opening on May 20, Il Totano is a Southern Italian restaurant in the former Flex Mussels space that seats about 80 and channels 1970s Italian holiday vibes. Dieterle says he was “doing a lot of fishing” during the pandemic and a lot of dry‑aging, which inspired the restaurant’s centerpiece; the dining room even includes a dry‑aging fridge. The menu emphasizes aged fish and crudos, revives Perilla’s spicy duck meatballs, and features pastas such as a play on linguine and clams with ramps and guanciale, with a seasonal approach intended to keep offerings moving." - Melissa McCart