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"I watched Chef Vince Nguyen resurrect Berlu bakery and cafe in Portland, Oregon, in June 2025, relocating it to a brighter space and leaning the revival into casual daytime dining while keeping its kaleidoscopic slate of Vietnamese diasporic dishes. Standouts include an instantly iconic, finely corrugated pandan bánh bò nướng whose muted color belies an intensely earthy flavor; a coconut egg custard tart crowned with a shaggy layer of salted egg yolk; pork belly and shrimp bún with roasted chicken broth; and an erstwhile special BEC bánh xèo that riffs on bacon, egg, and cheese using turmeric, coconut milk powder, and rice flour. I also loved the bánh khoai mì nướng, a pineapple-upside-down–cake play warmed with cardamom and given a mochi-like texture from cassava and mungbean, and a heady clove canelé that makes a perfect pocket treat to go." - Nicole Fellah