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"On the quiet end of York Boulevard, this jewel box serves peppercorn-laced Sichuan that mostly sits below $20, though it shines brightest in the small plates. Dumplings arrive in a shallow puddle of chile oil and sweet soy, alongside refreshing cucumbers and beancurd; to keep it under $25, pair the crispy dry pepper fried tofu with the outstanding dan dan noodles. Must-try dishes: dry pepper fried tofu, dan dan noodles." - Rebecca Roland