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"In San Diego, Relic Bakery — which began as a pop-up and recently opened — presents a pastry case that's about 60 percent sweet and 40 percent savory; I found items such as a honeynut squash croissant with balsamic and brown butter and a "biscuits and gravy" croissant topped with pork gravy and a poached egg. Chef and co-owner Derek Hadden, who came from fine dining and had not worked in pastry before, approaches pastries like restaurant dishes by using seasonal produce, cutting back on fats, and adding acid to balance richness, and he describes the technical challenges of translating savory dishes to croissants (a Reuben that "just slopped," and a cassoulet that required pureeing beans to thicken) — efforts driven by his aim to put things on a pastry "that you probably wouldn't see on a pastry." - Bettina Makalintal