Smithfield Market

Richard Falk of The Dairy Clapham Reveals Lino Restaurant at Smithfield | Eater London

"Opening 9 November as an all-day restaurant and bar in an old linoleum and carpet warehouse behind Smithfield market, this project from the former head chef of The Dairy (who also worked under Robin Gill and at the Michelin-starred The Ledbury) emphasizes making almost everything in-house—from bread and charcuterie to botanical cocktail infusions—while pursuing a low-waste approach. The menu mixes inventive small plates and shareable mains, with snacks such as sauerkraut and Montgomery cheddar croquettes, larger dishes like a Belted Galloway wing rib of beef with oxtail and potato tart, and a dessert of croissant ice cream made from leftover breakfast-kiosk pastries with brown butter, blood orange, and coffee. Drinks are pitched as both innovative and kitsch, with classic serves such as the Snowball (Advocaat and lemonade) being reimagined alongside other playful cocktails. Housed around a central clover-shaped waxed tulipwood bar, the interior pairs millennial shades of peach, salmon pink and rustic green with antique brass fixtures and the building’s original brown glazed tiles, drawing on minimalist Finnish design cues; the space is intended to function equally well for quick cocktails on a Friday night or settling in to share plates for dinner." - Adam Coghlan