"This 12-seat sushi counter has become nationally acclaimed for Edomae-style sushi: delicate, often cured slivers of fish, potent and pristine in flavor and texture. The chefs here introduce so many nuances of each fish that would often be lost at other restaurants. Lightly cold-smoked, salt and vinegar-cured saba is salty and sweet and smoky. Hotate from Northwestern Japan gets a spritz of yuzu, its perfume-y citrus complementing the creaminess of the scallop. Outside the world of seafood, A5 wagyu is hit with a hand torch so the fat renders silken, but doesn’t cook; the result is a delicate, decadent bite of beef that’s hard to forget. The restaurant’s main draw is the fixed-price omakase, but a la carte is offered Tuesday through Friday." - Katherine Chew Hamilton