GOURMET

Why I Related so Strongly to Ruth Reichl’s New Memoir | Eater

"Ruth Reichl’s memoir recounts her decade leading the publication after being recruited by James Truman and S.I. Newhouse in 1999 through its surprise closure in 2009, and depicts the work of turning an iconic, somewhat fusty food title into something more relevant and influential amid the evolution of food media. She describes the excesses of Condé Nast’s golden age—high salaries, clothing allowances, black cars, and outlandish budgets—and the personal perks of the job (a private office with its own bathroom, a driver, stays in top Paris hotels, and mingling with figures like David Remnick and S.I. Newhouse). At the same time the book is candid about leadership challenges: overseeing a large staff, trying to be a collaborative, non-hierarchical boss, pushing the boundaries of what a food publication can be, balancing editorial and business needs, deciding when to compromise, and raising her profile without losing herself. The narrative is full of revealing, relatable passages (and even a pancake recipe), making it a compelling read for people both inside and outside food and media." - Amanda Kludt