Mariscos El Layo Makes Some of the Bay Area’s Freshest Aguachiles and Ceviche Inside a Richmond Bodega | Eater SF

"Tucked in a corner past the compact aisles of a nondescript bodega, this no-frills mini kitchen run by Hilario “Layo” Martinez Leon serves surprisingly fresh, flavor-packed Sinaloan-style ceviches and aguachiles. Layo began making these dishes for family and friends and, after a stint in jail when he “lost everything,” borrowed $40 from his brother to buy ingredients and sell his ceviche — a mix of freshly diced shrimp, tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, cilantro, and a “special blend” of juices and spices he tinkered with for four years — selling out on his first day and building a following through reinvested profits and social media. The menu expanded to include fiery aguachiles (raw shrimp submerged in a chiltepin-water mixture) that are simultaneously refreshing and addictively spicy — arguably even better than the ceviche — plus Richmond-style additions like crisp raspberry-chipotle and mango-habañero wings and ultra-cheesy “loco fries” (available with freshly sautéed shrimp). Freshness is paramount: a cousin drives to L.A. and the San Diego border to bring seafood from Sinaloa, so Layo makes only limited quantities daily and often sells out, making advance orders important on weekends. He's been operating from the Family Market corner kitchen for nearly two years, hopes to expand with a food truck, and is open Tuesday through Sunday from 1 to 8 p.m.; check Instagram for updates." - Lena Park