

5

"Tucked behind the main facade of an Ojai massage parlor, this sleek hi-fi mezcal bar attached to the adjacent taquería Taco Roma channels Mexico City, Oaxaca, and Tokyo’s listening bars, with music floating from a vintage Klipsch sound system while tacos — especially the crispy lamb carnitas that eats like a hybrid of lamb barbacoa and traditional pork — fly from the kitchen. The mezcal list runs just deep enough; I start with a simple sipper of Madre from the Oaxacan hills of San Dionisio and Miahuatlan, and use the mezcal-and-jamaica ranch water as a palate cleanser between bites of tacos, ceviche, and tostada de atún. The fried fish taco, dressed with a crisp cabbage slaw, is no slouch, and cinnamon-sugar-dusted churros stacked beside a fatty dollop of whipped cream make a sweet finish. A giant mirror ball glints over a neon-red-lit bar, vinyl stretches floor to ceiling, and dim nooks (including an upstairs alcove) make it a great place to start or end the night, though it gets busier later and patrons spill onto the small patio. Elder millennials mingle with the college-aged crowd, drawn by some of the town’s only late-night hours for food and drink (the bar stays open until 1 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays); avoid the wait on busy weekends by making a reservation ahead." - Nicole Fellah