"The best of the new Sichuan restaurants changing the face of Chinatown and introducing central London to bludgeoning chilli heat and ma la. The original location on Leicester St is better than the shiny new one, and it’s best to bring a group: the things to get here are the huge and customisable dry hot pots, whole splayed sea basses atop an unstable island of tofu in an ocean of chilli oil, and the crawfish — red on red on red — in which Sichuan peppercorns are hidden in every crevice." - Jonathan Nunn