"Institutions go by formulas, rules, and rigmaroles that can either feel inclusive and transportive or arch and starch. Le Relais is the former. Sit down; order a perfectly good salad; order a perfectly cooked steak with rustling frites and a doubly herbed up bearnaise (look, it’s not really a secret sauce); have a second round of steak; maybe order a dessert. That’ll do cow, that’ll do." - James Hansen, Adam Coghlan