Sanjh in DFW’s New Executive Chef | Eater Dallas
"Marketed as the only fine-dining Indian restaurant in the Metroplex, the restaurant sits in a waterfront dining room in Las Colinas and offers a classic Indian menu of curries and freshly made breads served in an upscale style; it has made the Eater Dallas 38 and attracted praise from local figures such as Stephan Pyles, who called his dining experience there one of his most remarkable of 2024. Chef Sarabjit Singh Assi describes his path here: "The story starts in 2018, when one of the owners visited the ITC Hotel [in India], where I was working as the chef in charge. He promised me that when he opened an Indian restaurant in Dallas, I would be his first choice as chef. In 2023, I got that opportunity. We created a menu that isn’t too modern and instead focused on the authenticity of the food. Before opening, I did research and development for the menu with the 14 chefs who work at Sanjh — I am blessed to have 14 chefs from India. Our pastry chef Rajat Sachdeva is crucial for us." He says the team visited the top U.S. restaurants before launch but ultimately decided, "we need to stick to what we were doing in India. So we stick to the basics. People love curries here, that I know [laughs]." On butter chicken he notes it’s intentionally different from other versions: "it’s different — it’s coarse and not sweet, like we used to make at Daryaganj in Delhi, which is called the place where butter chicken was invented." On fine dining and service philosophy he emphasizes storytelling and authenticity: "Being an Indian fine dining restaurant doesn’t mean putting the dishes on a fancy plate, or anything like that. We need to create an experience. The dishes coming to your table need to have a story behind them and be a reflection of the chef who created them. The perception of Indian food is that it is spicy. Spicy does not mean hot; it means flavorful. It means that the experience for the guest includes telling them what we are serving, what state the dishes are coming from, how they are made, and who made them." The menu reflects regional outreach and ingredient care: a kori gassi served with dosa (made with buckwheat rather than rice flour so "It’s very light, not heavy like naan"), where "we sear the chicken thigh and make a blend of spices. We use stone flour and black peppers of different varieties... So we got a full container of spices from South India, and that is what we still use. After we put the spice blend on the chicken, we finish with coconut milk to bind it together." He stresses sourcing: "The chicken we’re using in the restaurant, and in the kori gassi, is free-range. I am careful about selecting the ingredients. Our fish is wild caught. The ingredients are what tell the story of the dishes." On diners’ reactions and menu highlights he says, "When they say it reminds them of their mom or a home cooking thing, I feel proud...Being part of a Punjabi family — Punjabis start at breakfast when they talk about lunch, and at lunch they talk about dinner. Then at dinner they talk about what they want for breakfast. Punjabis are very particular about their food. Now, my mom is a little proud of me and thinks I’m cooking the right way." He points guests to house-made items and particular plates: "We make our own paneer, and I tell people they won’t find a paneer like this. I am confident that what we are making is a work of art. Nothing can match it. We have bharwan paneer tikka that is in a different class. Our lamb chops, too, need to be tried. People tell us they’re just like they had in India. We also offer a full chaat menu, which is particular for Delhi people. Chaat means “to lick,” and it gives you a start and a craving to have more. I try to keep five per menu, and innovate. I am working on adding a kulle ki chaat, which is fruit-based and a very different thing." - Courtney E. Smith
