Arcadia Restaurant Blue Magpie Introduces Taiwanese Upscale Dining to SGV | Eater LA
"Opened June 11 in Arcadia, this modern Taiwanese fine-dining restaurant occupies a transformed 3,500-square-foot former Rod’s Grill space a few blocks from the Santa Anita Park racetrack; the redesign is striking, featuring chandeliers, custom wallpaper, bird-patterned tile and other nods to the Formosan blue magpie, with two private dining rooms beyond a sleek main dining area. Led by Taipei-born executive chef Leo Lo, who has opened several restaurants across Taiwan, the project is a collaboration with local entrepreneur Kevin Tang, who grew up in the San Gabriel Valley and spent two years developing the room and concept; Tang says, “We had to redesign and rebuild the entire structure,” and that “I wanted to create something that felt true to Taiwanese culture but presented in a more layered and elegant way.” The menu reworks traditional Taiwanese food with contemporary influences and begins with a complimentary plate of gobo root chips—crisp slices of burdock root fried until golden and lightly salted. Standout preparations include a three-cup duck, described as “a twist on the classic chicken version that typically uses equal parts soy, rice wine, and sesame oil,” glazed in a rich sauce and served with cherry tomatoes and fresh basil; dongpo rou served tableside—soy-braised pork belly with marinated eggs, Shaoxing wine, and a blanket of over-easy eggs that melt into the rice beneath; and càipǔdàn, a preserved radish omelet given an aromatic lift from truffle butter. Other dishes amplify or reinterpret Taiwanese flavors: a mala popcorn chicken arrives hot and crunchy with Sichuan peppercorn, you tiao (Chinese fried cruller), and dried chiles; a torched tableside Napa casserole layers sakura shrimp, dried scallops, and kurobuta pork under bubbling cheese; a 24-hour brewed chicken ambrosia soup comes loaded with prosciutto and bamboo shoots; fermented rice short ribs reinterpret a traditional red grain pork dish with a punch of lemon, peppers, and Shaoxing wine; hollandaise tofu is made with translucent slices of tofu topped with century egg hollandaise and pork floss; and a dragon whisker salad comes with chayote shoots, sesame oil, kombu vinaigrette, and bonito flakes. The weekend brunch draws from Taiwanese street snacks with elevated twists—examples include a crispy chicken sandwich, a tea egg and milk toast sandwich, and a deep-fried lobster and prosciutto stack. Cocktails (served at dinner only) echo the kitchen’s themes: many are infused with Taiwanese teas steeped or prepared sous vide for hours; the Moonlight Bloom, made with osmanthus gaoliang, longan juice, and housemade osmanthus honey, is described as floral, bold, and slightly smoky, while other options include a winter melon highball and the Lady Camellia with jasmine gin, elderflower, and grapefruit. Housemade syrups such as elderflower and longan honey appear in teas and sodas, and the milk tea uses condensed milk slow-cooked for eight hours, then is topped with zested orange peel, a dulce de leche milk foam, and seasonal Taiwanese fruit tea. The team notes a desire to broaden the local scene as Taiwanese offerings in the area have dwindled—Tang pointed to longtime spots such as Old Country Cafe and the Kembo Truck—and Chef Lo frames the mission clearly: “We want to show that Taiwanese cuisine is more than street food or comfort fare,” Lo says. “It is vibrant, diverse, and deeply expressive.” The restaurant serves lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday (weekend brunch included), is dine-in only for now with takeout and delivery expected soon, and operates from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. for lunch and 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. for dinner." - Kristie Hang
