

5
"Parked over the Jefferson L stop on Wyckoff Avenue, the sleek black trailer dazzles with pennants, painted slogans, and a logo of a drunken pink panther on a disgruntled horse; it operates 4 p.m. to 2 a.m., seven days a week. Inside, three cooks hustle as one fries tortillas on a flattop and transfers ice-cream-scoop portions of shredded chile-braised beef—sold as the sole filling under a banner reading “Estilo Tijuana.” The menu has expanded beyond regular tacos to quesabirria, mulitas, tortas, and nachos, with consomme free if you order three antojitos or a sandwich; the torta ($10) on a furrowed telera roll is a popular item that often runs out early. The consomme is notably rich, with a larger rendered-suete component that makes tortillas crisp and shimmer when fried—hence the “crunchy” descriptor—and the mulitas (three for $14, including consomme) are like a cheese-pressed cross between a quesadilla and a taco. When I ate there the mulitas were intensely rich (cheese oozed out the sides and was a mild yellow cheddar rather than a Mexican cheese), so one or two is plenty; proprietor Peter Luna told me meat is sometimes brought in from a nearby taqueria kitchen, and he encourages ordering in advance via Instagram or phone and prepaying with Zelle." - Robert Sietsema