"Perched in the shadow of Lewisham’s monolithic shopping centre, the sheer physicality of Sparrow’s location feels like a metaphor for migrating the seasonal, restrained cooking familiar to central London to SE13. Chefs and partners Terry Blake and Yohini Nandakumar are up to the task, having met at St John and done stints at The Square and Bao. Working upon a modern European canvas, inflections come from far and wide: dinner could start with cured salmon, lemon and crème fraîche before turning to massaman beef cheek curry, or tender duck breast with chilli jam and endives. Brunch is essential, with Sri Lankan appam pancakes reflecting Nandakumar’s roots, and mince on dripping toast" - David Paw