"After a years-long hiatus, chicken impresario Charles Gabriel returned to Harlem with a revamped and expanded menu that included barbecued ribs, smothered chicken, fried fish, and pulled pork. But the heart of the operation is still lightly dusted pieces of chicken, skin intact, fried in a series of skillets by the old-fashioned method that came here from the Carolinas long ago, requiring constant surveillance on the part of the cook. There are other locations on 125th Street on on the Upper West Side." - Robert Sietsema