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"I note that to mark its 30th anniversary the restaurant hired Italian native Domenico Apollaro—its first Italian head chef—to modernize and add authenticity, and he’s already changed roughly 50% of the menu to bring more sophistication and true Italian flavor. The two-story, 180-seat, wood-heavy dining room sits at the corner where Connecticut Avenue meets R Street with huge windows overlooking Dupont, and Apollaro sees big potential in unused kitchen space where he’s making items from scratch: fresh pastas (including a rigatoni with slow-cooked duck ragout), a gelato machine en route to produce sweets and sorbets on site, and new starters such as suppli (saffron risotto balls with lemon zest and squash veloute) and Romagnolo-style grilled calamari with squid ink vinaigrette. He’s streamlining offerings so ingredients stay fresh, planning an upscale late-night bar menu to extend service to 11 p.m., introducing a monthly tasting menu and more slow-cooking and sous-vide techniques (his sous chef from Lupo Verde has joined), expanding the on-site cafe/prosciutto bar with new sandwiches, and rolling out distinct menus for the main dining room, bar, and cafe; authentic touches like raffling a 22-pound wrapped chocolate at Easter and hosting passport-style family feasts (from lamb to lasagna) underscore his aim to make the Dupont block an Italian-lover’s destination." - Tierney Plumb