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"One of four Nagoya-meshi chains to garner national acclaim, Yamachan is a multi-floor izakaya famous for tebasaki. Yamachan fries the wings directly without any batter or cornstarch to such a severe crisp that even the cartilage shatters into delicious fragments. Cooks finish the wings off by showering them in a spice rub redolent with white pepper. Side dishes range from fine to average, so the pro move is to order a pint of ice-cold beer and a mountain of tebasaki, and call it a night. [$$$]" - Nina Li Coomes
