"John Winter Russell’s food is best described as having a “meat on the side” attitude, but the lack of extra protein doesn’t go amiss. Vegetables are a star here, which means they have to be good to start, and they certainly are. Candide is a prime example of how working closely with local producers pays off in the prepared final dishes — and it gets historical points for its location in a converted church." - Holly Tousignant, Ashley Joseph, Eater Staff
