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"At the Hudson Yards modern Korean spot Kawi, the ganjang-gejang — raw blue crab with a wonderfully gelatinous, bone-marrow–like texture — was one of the best dishes of the year; Times critic Pete Wells awarded the venue two stars while I doled out three. The crab famously opened at $16 this spring but has since jumped to $42, a hike that makes it 163 percent more expensive and more in line with the mall’s luxury pricing. The preparation has changed too: it’s now a spicy oryangnyeom gejang, with sweet crustaceans marinated in soy, gochu garu, and habanero; Park now uses three crabs (one halved and served in its shell, the meat from two tossed with seasoned perilla rice) and finishes the dish with a few soft beads of salmon roe for oily oomph. The quality keeps pace with the cheaper original — the crab remains silky and gelatinous, easier now to make crab-and-rice rolls with the included nori — and the roe adds brine while the Fresno-chile–laced sauce brings a round, salty heat that’s just right. It’s still a BUY for me (I spent days thinking about the silky crab sliding down my throat, and three times the crab for just under three times the price isn’t a bad deal), but the steep price hike and loss of the dish’s previous accessibility make it feel less like the least–Hudson Yards restaurant it once seemed." - Ryan Sutton