"This Lakewood star comes by its reputation thanks to a family-run kitchen that honors seasonal ingredients, preparing them with clarity and gusto from roast duck curry with pineapple, grapes, and tomatoes to pork-leg stew with kale and pickled cabbage. Delicately fried tofu, with its creamy interior and lightly sweet, peanut-topped chili sauce, may be the best in town, and the nam phrik ong (ground pork dip) gives the best bolognese a run for its money; to follow them, choose anything from the often-updated “Must Try” section of the menu, be it the intensely earthy floating market noodle soup with beef or the fresh tea-leaf salad tossed tableside." - Ruth Tobias