"This venerable and much-beloved institution recently celebrated its sixtieth birthday, and, if happy to walk the twenty minutes or so into north Oxford, diners are rewarded with a comfortingly dependable menu, with favourites like gin confit sea trout, pork belly with broccoli puree, and chocolate arctic roll. Those in the know order something a bit special from the well-chosen and extremely good value wine list; when the weather’s nice hire a punt and go along the Thames." - Alexander Larman