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"On a side street in Murray Hill, the humble noodle counter at 134 E. 27th Street near Lexington Avenue gives wan za noodles ($12) equal billing with dry Nanchang-style rice noodles; the marinated ground meat has the texture of spaghetti sauce and is paired with yellow peas, and there is lots of broth in the bottom of the bowl that you can season with soy sauce or black vinegar, both available on the table." - Robert Sietsema