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"Warmth emanates from the narrow dining room as groups clink glasses of natural wine or IPAs before splitting trays of briny oysters whose provenance changes daily. On some nights, fish and chips coated in a thick, almost pancake-like batter and served in checkered paper appear on the menu, while dishes like a tender hanger steak and wood-fired kale remain more constant. This is the type of restaurant where you want to be a regular; it can be whatever you need it to be, whether it be an easy stop for caviar and bubbles, a special occasion restaurant for birthday dinners that end with a candle in a scoop of sorbet, or a spot for a solo dinner of broiled oysters and miso butter–topped Japanese sweet potato." - Eater Staff