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"I discovered a counter-service spot in San Jose (soft-opened in April) where the bánh mì come loaded with unexpected fillings like tender porchetta, strips of fried chicken, and a housemade cilantro aioli; the sandwiches get brightness from pickled carrots and daikon and freshness from cilantro, cucumber, jalapeño, and green onion, plus umami from scallion oil, fried onions, and chicken pate. The porchetta is one of owner Curtis Lai’s mother’s home recipes—slow-roasted Italian pork belly that, while not traditional, melds well with the Vietnamese flavors—while the medallion sandwich features thick, charred pork patties with a springy texture and prominent lemongrass that bite like a juicy, aromatic burger; the fried chicken offers a standout textural contrast against the snappy pickled vegetables. Lai bakes his own bread (he learned from YouTube, now comes in at 4 a.m. to bake about 200 loaves), is developing fried spring rolls and a vegan cilantro aioli, and keeps the menu deliberately simple to perfect the core items; any filling can also be served over vermicelli or rice. Don’t miss the intensely savory fries and wings tossed in a sweet fish-sauce glaze with scallions and fried onions, and if you stop by early, there’s Vietnamese coffee available. Lai intends the place to be a welcoming community spot—he aims to know customers by name—and Mommy’s Bánh Mì is open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Monday through Saturday." - Octavio Peña