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"This sandwich shop, run by owner Ethan Lim, focuses on wildly creative, ever-changing mashups that ask, 'Will it sandwich?' Highlights include a Cambodian fried chicken sandwich marinated in kroeung and topped with a papaya salad with chopped long beans and herbs that is described as stimulating every pleasure point, and a cheesesteak made with Chinese-style rib-eye marinated in black pepper, poblanos, and Chihuahua cheese. Another standout layers pork belly, kroeung, and fermented mudfish paste with grilled shishito peppers and green Thai eggplants for a spicy, fatty, slightly sweet, and agreeably funky bite. Even classics receive cheffy enhancements—think red-onion jam on the burger or bacon-fat–cooked kraut on the Reuben—making the menu inventive and consistently intriguing." - Jeffy Mai