
4

"Set squarely as a seafood-focused restaurant, the room feels unmistakably like a hotel dining space — large, ornate and attempting a casual, millennial-tinged plushness that critics found tired and even depressing. On the plate the cooking often underwhelms: seabass crudo is described as bland rather than ceviche or sashimi, a piattoni-bean side salad arrives with odd garnishes, and hake is let down by a watery sauce and random halved plum tomatoes. Even well-cooked dishes such as monkfish wrapped in ham lack punch, leaving the overall impression closer to decent hotel catering than a lively neighbourhood kitchen, and casting doubt on the owners’ hope that the place will transcend its setting." - George Reynolds