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"I join the line outside Emperor’s Kitchen, the neighborhood takeout spot with steam trays and simple one- or two-item combo plates, and hope they have char siu — which they do. I order a paper tray of char siu, several veggie egg rolls, and a portion of sticky General Tsao’s chicken; the char siu is made on-site and lives up to the hype with succulent pork, a glossy red crust, and a robust sweet-salty flavor. Peek a little closer and you realize this is a very special place, and the staff even recognize Ehler and helped his team when Outta Sight flooded in early 2023." - Lauren Saria