
1

"Deep in a Torrance strip mall, a somewhat cranky Taiwanese chef cranks out huge portions of flavorful Sichuan at startling speed—point at the menu if you don’t speak Mandarin and the dishes will land quickly. Take Dylan Ho’s advice and skip the cold apps for beef noodle soup; my spread of numbing mapo tofu, boiled pork-and-chive dumplings, shrimp fried rice, and dan dan noodles (about $11–$12 each) delivered juicy, hefty dumplings and nutty noodles buzzing with Sichuan peppercorns, the heat cooled only by rough-julienned cucumbers. Expect MSG, dried chiles, and minimal frills—even wok-fried bok choy gets the treatment—and plan on leftovers and maybe a sweet boba afterward to wash down all that salt, umami, and spice. Must-try dishes: mapo tofu, dan dan noodles, shrimp fried rice." - Rebecca Roland