Sushi Zanmai Review: The Tuna King’s Foray Into Los Angeles Is a Masterclass in Affordable Japanese Food | Eater LA

"A masterclass in affordable Japanese food from “Tuna King” Kiyoshi Kimura, this Koreatown Chapman Plaza outpost channels the Tsukiji Outer Market original with under-$50-per-person pricing and a broad, crowd-pleasing menu. More than 20 cuts of nigiri include five kinds of tuna — fatty otoro, leaner akami, medium-fatty, and seared toro — plus yellowtail; start with the otoro and at least two other tuna nigiri ($4 to $7 per piece). Rolls abound: the rainbow roll layers yellowtail, salmon, tuna, and shrimp, while the salmon skin hand roll delivers crunch with julienned cucumbers; grilled mackerel is a satisfying hot option served with salad, rice, and miso soup. Starters and shareables range from edamame, shishito peppers, and spicy tuna crispy rice (topped with a thin slice of jalapeño) to agedashi tofu, sunomono cucumber, chawanmushi, karaage, and miso black cod. The room isn’t fancy — tightly packed tables and traditional Japanese furnishings coexist with bright lights and TV screens recounting Zanmai’s history, which dulls any date-night appeal — and street parking is tough enough that the $10 Chapman lot is the move. As ever, Kimura marks a new opening by expertly breaking down a several-hundred-pound tuna for the crowd, a showy prelude to a straightforward, satisfying meal." - Matthew Kang